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A dense, silky chocolate gelato made with a milk base in the Italian tradition.
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Unlike American ice cream, which uses lots of cream, gelato is made with a milk base and less air churned in, so it's denser and silkier. It's said to have developed at the courts of Renaissance Florence, and today gelaterie across Italy serve it freshly made — a sign of summer in Italy.
Beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale.
Warm the milk and melt in the cocoa powder and chopped chocolate.
Gradually whisk into the yolks, return to the pot, and heat gently until thickened.
Stir in the cream and let cool.
Freeze, stirring every hour, several times until smooth.