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Filter kaapi is South India’s morning coffee: dark-roast coffee with chicory slowly dripped through a metal filter, then mixed with hot frothy milk by pouring it back and forth between two vessels.
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North India drinks tea, but in coffee-growing Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, mornings start with filter coffee. It’s served in a steel tumbler set in a wide saucer called a dabara, and poured between them from a height to froth and cool it.
Put the coffee in the top chamber of a South Indian coffee filter and set the press disk on top. Without one, use a pour-over dripper with a small amount of water.
Pour in 80ml just-boiled water, cover, and let it drip slowly for about 15 minutes. This strong concentrate is called decoction.
Heat the milk almost to a boil.
Put sugar and 3–4 tbsp decoction in a tumbler and pour in the hot milk.
Pour back and forth between the tumbler and dabara (or two mugs) from a height 5–6 times to build a thick froth.