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Chicken and cracked wheat beaten until silky — Armenia's traditional porridge.
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Armenian harissa is a completely different dish from the North African chili paste: chicken or lamb and cracked wheat are simmered for hours and beaten with a wooden paddle into a porridge. Treasured as a dish tied to the nation's history, it's made in big pots especially at Easter and on holidays and shared by all. It's eaten with plenty of melted butter.
Put water and the chicken in a pot, bring to a boil, and simmer 1 hour, skimming.
Remove the chicken, take it off the bone, and shred finely.
Add the bulgur to the broth and simmer on low for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Return the chicken, add salt, and beat vigorously with a wooden spatula for 30 minutes until the chicken and wheat become one.
Add water if needed for a thick, porridge-like consistency.
Spoon into bowls, pour over plenty of melted butter, and sprinkle with pepper.